Men’s Flat Cap / Gatsby Hat: Pattern DIY Tutorial

flat cap gatsby hat tutorial DIYAre you tired of searching Excellently Fitting FLAT CAP (sometimes called Gatsby hat, or even Newsboy hat) for The Man in Your Life?
He wants STYLE, COMFORT, WARMTH, and having ONE OF A KIND HAT? You can sew a straight line, and wish to give Your Man The HAT that nobody else will have? GREAT!
Make use of this tutorial and create for him FLAT CAP.
If he wants – you can even add warm and practical, folding inside EARFLAPS to keep his ears warm when it’s cold. See this TUTORIAL FOR MAKING EARFLAPS FOR FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT.

You can use this pattern to make hat for any season – just by choosing different fabric and lining fabric. For colder season it is a good idea to use some fabric that gives warmth (like – wool) and make the hat even warmer by choosing warm lining fabric as well. To give the outer fabric additional strength for shape, and more warmth- you can add fusible interfacing. For hot season – use light fabrics, and you can skip the lining. To make this hat pleasant for wearing in the heat – make some holes in the sides for air circulation. You can choose different size of brim – whatever feels right.

I made this hat for the cold season. The brim is quite wide to protect the eyes when it is snowing or raining. The outside fabric is made of wool and is rather thick. I also added fusible interfacing. The inner lining is warm fabric (half wool).

If you follow the steps of this tutorial, it should be easy and simple to make this hat.

Continue reading to explore more…. 

MATERIALS NEEDED TO MAKE THIS FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT:

flat cap gatsby hat newsboy DIY

A. Fabric for hat, that is 60 cm x 60 cm big for pattern details 1 and 2 (pattern shows half of the details 1 and 2 – see for the folding line indications), and twice detail 3 (see picture 1 top right corner, and picture 6). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 7 mm outside pattern’s line.
B. Lining fabric 60 cm x 45 cm (if you decide to make hat with lining) for pattern details 1 and 2 (picture 1 middle fabric, and picture 7). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 5 mm outside pattern’s line.
C. Fusible Interfacing 60 cm x 45 cm for outside fabric for pattern details 1 and 2 (picture1 on the very left, and picture 8). Cut the interfacing right on the pattern line.
You can also skip this step. If you choose to add it – it will give additional strength for the fabric to hold the shape.
D. Some strong material to use inside brim that would hold the shape (carton, brim from baseball cap that you don’t need, durable plastic etc).
I used an old plastic folder (picture 2), but it was not as thick as I wanted, so I cut out 5 pieces of detail 3 (picture 3) and glued them together (picture 4).
E. Ribbon for inside of the hat around the head – about 59 cm long and 2 cm wide)
F. Thread, Iron, Needles, Pins, Sewing Machine (this hat can also be made just by hand).

STEPS OF HOW TO MAKE FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT:

Detailed description of steps for making the hat is below the pictures:

flat cap newsboy gatsby hat DIY tutorial

STEP 1: Use the pattern for hat details 1, 2 and 3 that is in PDF file (Pattern as PDF). There are two A4 pages. One of them contains details 1 and 3, and part of detail 2, while the second page contains continuation of detail 2. Join both parts of detail 2 together at the indicated line.

This pattern is meant for the head’s size 58 cm. If you need it to be smaller – sew it tighter than pattern shows (middle seam of detail 2 and both seams at the back of the hat where detail 2 is joined to detail 1).

STEP 2: Cut out the parts of the hat as described above at Materials Needed.

STEP 3: If you decided to use fusible interfacing – iron it on the outside fabric’s BACK side within pattern lines (picture 1).

STEP 4: Put detail 1 and 2 front sides together, so that back side of the fabrics would be outside (picture 2).
Join the details first at the middle lines – folding lines. Then pin them together along the hems, so that corners marked with letter “A” (on the pattern) would be connected as indicated (picture 3-5). Then sew along this line all around the hat – from one corner A to the second corner A.

STEP 5: Turn the hat to the right side and pin the seam that you just made to the center of the hat (picture 6). Then sew along the seam of step 4, so that your new sewing line would be on the seam’s side towards the center of the hat, about 2 mm away from previous seam.

STEP 6: Now turn the hat inside out and pin together the middle back seam of detail 2 (picture 7), then sew it. Then turn the hat to the facing side and sew along one side of this seam – about 2 mm away from the seam.

STEP 7: Pin both details 3 for brim together with facing sides inside and sew the outside seam on the brim. Then turn them so that facing sides would be outside and insert the stiff material for the brim inside the fabric brim.
Then pin both details 3 together on the line where it will be attached to the hat and sew along this curved line. Now the stiff brim material is completely inside seams and is not visible anymore.

flat cap gatsby hat DIY

STEP 8: Pin the brim to the hat – attaching detail 2 to brim, first by matching middle lines of brim and detail 2. Then sew along the inner curved line of the brim (picture 8).

STEP 9: See picture 9 – you need to pin the outside curve of brim to the hat and sew it to DETAIL 1, so that brim would be attached to it (picture 9). If you can – sew with machine, otherwise do it by hand.The brim I created was so thick that machine could not pierce the needle through it, so I had to sew the brim by hand to detail.
However, you can also decide that you want the brim to be free and not attached to detail 2, then you can skip this step.

STEP 10: Now repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 for making the lining of the hat (same as on pictures 2 to 7).

STEP 11: Put the lining inside the hat – outside fabric and lining fabric have back sides of fabric together. Pin the lining to the outside fabric so that seams would match. Try the hat on (if possible) and make necessary adjustments.
Now fold the outside fabric’s edge inside the hat along the outside line, so that it would cover the edge of the lining fabric (picture 10). Sew by hand (or machine if possible).

STEP 12: Pin the ribbon inside the hat, all around the edge, about 3 mm away from the edge (picture 11), then sew it on the line close to the edge of the hat. Make sure it is not visible from the outside.

CONGRATULATIONS – YOUR HAT IS READY!

If you want to add EARFLAPS that can be tucked inside hat when not needed – check out this DIY TUTORIAL FOR MAKING EARFLAPS FOR FLAT CAP / GATSBY HAT.

Let me know if you have any questions or comments about this tutorial!

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139 Responses to Men’s Flat Cap / Gatsby Hat: Pattern DIY Tutorial

  1. Cher says:

    Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial. I hope to attempt it one day soon and have bookmarked it. My youngest son loves these hats so I’d really like to make him one and I think my hubby would look very sporty in one also. I stumbled across you via Pinterest and am so glad I did. Thanks so much!

  2. Pingback: Free pattern: Flat Gatsby-style cap · Sewing | CraftGossip.com

  3. 64colorbox says:

    My boyfriend and I were just looking at hats for him. I can’t wait to try this out!

  4. Julie says:

    I am going to pass this on to a friend. She sews and I don’t so thank you for this free pattern. I’m sure her husband will look very smart wearing a hat like this when out in the countryside or even out walking on a chilly evening.

  5. elizabth says:

    Just found your blog through Craft Gossip….and I am in.love.with.this.hat. Pinned! I will be back!

  6. Salma says:

    Ack! This is so perfect! You are a genius!

  7. Terase says:

    I am now your newest follower! I love this hat and have been reading a lot of your posts. I want to start sewing again and this is just the thing to start!
    Thanks! Terase

  8. Akima says:

    Thanks, got curious one day and looked this up… and it really exist on a website!

  9. Brandy says:

    This pattern/tut is awesome, thank you so much for making it available!
    My boyfriend loves, loves, loves his flat caps and our little girl loves her daddy’s caps as well so we’ve been looking for a child-size pattern for some time now. I’d like to make her smaller, pink versions as well as matching ones so she and her daddy can wear their flat caps at the same time. Is there any way to modify the cap to that small of a size? (She’s almost 16 months old). Thanks for any advice! =)

    • Brandy, you have wonderful idea for your little girl!
      If you are fine to experiment a bit – I suggest you use copy machine to decrease the pattern. As you decrease it – you need to measure it, to figure out when the size is correct for your daughter. To measure it you need to take a thread that does not stretch. Put one end of the thread on the DETAIL 1 on decreased pattern – the corner where DEATIL´S 1 middle line meets its inner curve (in pdf pattern it is the corner that is very close to the red detail 3, near the number “3″). Then, pin the very end of your thread at this corner of Detail 1 and trace the thread with your fingers along the line of inner curve of Detail 1 till the end of this curve – it is marked by letter “A”. When you have reached corner “A”, make a mark with some pen or pencil on the thread – to mark the length of DETAIL´S 1 INNER CURVE – from Folding Middle line till point “A” corner. (In the original size, the length of this line is 22.5 cm.)
      Next – pin the thread at this point that you just marked down on DETAIL 2, at it´s point “A” corner (where Detail´s 2 inner curve meets its shortest edge line (this line on the ready made hat is located on the back of the head – part of the hat´s down edge, between ears). The point “A” on the pattern for Detail 2 is positioned inside Detail 1). When you have pinned the thread at your marked place on thread to point “A” corner on DETAIL 2, you continue tracing the thread along the line of shortest edge of Detail 2 (on the pattern sheet it is drawn towards the outside curve of Detail 1, but still remains inside Detail 1). When you have reached the corner (on the other side of Letter “A”) of this short line of Detail 2 (in original pattern this slightly curved line is about 7.5 cm long), cut your thread right at that point. Now the length of thread represents the half of the length around the head. In original pattern size the thread´s length is about 30 cm, when traced along both lines as described before.
      To get the total length of the size around the hat´s edge you need to multiply the length of your thread by 2. In original pattern size it makes 30×2= 60 cm. In your case you want the final number to be the same as the size of your daughter´s head. I would suggest to have 2-4 cm more than her size, so you can use this hat for longer time while she keeps growing :-) To make hat hold properly on her head – sew the elastic ribbon inside the Detail 2 – along the line between ears (from point “A” to the second point “A” on fully cut out Detail 2).

      I was making the hat for my special man who has quite a big head, size 58 cm, but the pattern has size of 60 cm because the hat is with lining, I used thick fabrics and added earflaps that fold inside the hat – all of these details require that hat is bigger than size of head.
      I assume your little daughter needs a hat for rather warm weather, and you might use thinner fabric. These are details to consider when deciding on the size of the hat. As written before – I suggest to use the elastic ribbon option to make the hat fit her for longer time :-)
      Let me know if I can be of help! I hope that little lady will get her beautiful hat similar to her daddy´s :-)

  10. Tania says:

    Thank youI for this pattern. I want make one.

  11. Jill says:

    I think the hat is great, but when I printed out the pattern , the details were almost impossible to read. On page 2 there was nothing. [I used a black and white printer]. May I suggest that the pattern pieces for next time are drawn with a black pen and a series of differing dots and dashes are used to define each pattern piece. Thanks, that would be great.
    Regards, Jill

  12. Bonnie says:

    Thanks for the pattern. I will have to try this for my nephew. Lately he has gotten into wearing hats but wants something with a little flash to it. Unfortunately, most of what is in the stores is pretty conservative.

    • Thank you, Bonnie! It is possible to adapt the hat´s pattern while sewing it. I had to do so with my husband´s hat – before I made the final version, I made 2 testing hats from scrap fabric and asked him to try on, then I was drawing on the fabric and pinning it again, to get the shape he wanted.

  13. Brittni says:

    I love this type of hat and will try my hand at it soon! Your tutorial is very detailed, but i’m getting lost in all the words… Could I suggest you make a video tutorial? That would help me out a lot, Thanks!

    • Thank you, Brittni, for this feedback and idea! Let´s see, maybe some day I can come up with video tutorials :-)

    • Dale says:

      I would also like to request a video tutorial. Something on Facebook, perhaps. I’m better with “show me” than “tell me”, as many others might be.

      Regardless, thank you for sharing this tutorial as well as the pattern!

  14. Pingback: this is oddly ambitious for someone new to sewing, but i might have to give this a try. from aboutgoodness.com » making & thinking

  15. Jeannie says:

    Thank you so much for sharing! I too, have looked all over for the pattern to this cap. My son will be so excited!

  16. Zack says:

    Thanks for the tutorial! I would absolutely love to see a video tutorial as well!

  17. THANK YOU ! THANK YOU ! THANK YOU!!!! I searched every where for this pattern and your website was the most helpful. I just completed my first Gatsby hat this morning and I am so excited to try more. My brim is a little crooked by hey with a little more practice I’ll have it looking perfect like yours. Thank you soo soo much, and keep up the good work!!! I posted my finished project on Youtube at: http://youtu.be/_9DToQuAwvo
    I just want to show you my appreciation ;)

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Shauntae for your kind words and for sharing your video! You have chosen sooo nice fabric for your hat! I also like the snap that you have added to it – super!

    • Jill Potter says:

      Shauntae you did a great job! I wish you’d show the steps…I’m so confused. But I am kind of new to sewing…
      It’s a great hat.

  18. Jerri says:

    I am so thankful to find this cap. My husband has been wanting me to make one or more two for him. My hubby’s head measures 61 cm. How do I increase the size of this cap?

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Jerri! It is very easy to increase the circumference to 61 cm – simply make bigger seams for details 1 and 2 on the short edge (the corner is marked with letter “A”). That is the part that will be on the back side of the head (you can see those seams on step by step tutorial on picture 7). If you make a hat with lining – then it will also need some space, so the tip is that the seams are big enough that you can adjust the size when your husband tries on the hat.
      I hope it helps.

  19. Marie says:

    Greetings! thanks for your tutorial, I was so happy to finally find one that isnt super floppy! I recently made one but found that it was too small for my head( my head measures 22inches/ about 56cm. when i cut out the fabric i didnt increase the size for the seam thinking i wanted to make it a tinch bit smaller than what the pattern is originally for (60cm), could that have been where i went wrong?

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Marie! You are right – the reason why hat was too tight could be the size of seams that you did not increase. (unfortunately I can not open the picture link that you sent).
      If I were you and made this hat – I would have done the same thing of not increasing the seams, thinking that this way the hat will have the right size (from 60 cm of original hat to 56 cm that you need). This is tricky thing – a lot depends on the material you use (outside fabric, lining), how you sew etc. And each head has a different shape too. What I have learnt myself is to always try on the hat – several times, so I can adjust the size where necessary. The hat you see on the pictures – I think it was tried on at least 4 times to adjust the seams, so that fit would be the way my husband wanted it to be :-)
      I hope it helps.

  20. Jen says:

    Great tutorial! You’ve been featured on the Quality Sewing Tutorials blog.

    We hand select only the best free tutorials and patterns for the home sewist.

    Grab a brag button!

  21. mere says:

    Kia Ora,thankyou for making this pattern available, I have made two already…the first one small…. will fit a child and the second big..so I am tweaking the pattern to suit. Thanks again.

  22. Terri Baldock says:

    Thank you so much for sharing your pattern! When adding the seam allowances, are they added all the way around pieces?

  23. Daniel says:

    I do not understand step 5 and the second half of step 6. What do you mean, exactly, by pinning the seam to the center of the hat? Why would a new seam here be beneficial or look good? I’m quite confused and I’m halfway done so I’d like to finish this bugger.

    Thanks!
    -Dan

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you for your question, Dan! English is not my first language, nor the second – I certainly need to continue improving my English skills so I could express myself better.
      I stitched the seam at about 2 mm distance from the seam that holds details 1 and 2 together. One can also skip this step. This additional stitching is only for decorative purpose that also give the hat a better shape if the hat is made from rather soft fabric. (My husband is very picky about his hats, so this additional detail was important for him)

      Step 6 second part is also about stitching the seam (seam is from beginning of step 6) to one side – about 2 mm away from the previously sewn line (and again – one can skip this step as it serves only for looks and better shape). As this hat is black and made out of soft material – I can not make a photo of this seam to illustrate my words because on the photo one does not see it. But it does add better shape.

      I hope it helps.

      • Nicole says:

        Ahh! I think you simply mean reinforce the same seam stitch (which holds 1 & 2 together) with a stitch that is 2 mm inward. Am I right?

        • Nicole says:

          Or are you doing what is called “topstitching?” Sewing on the right side of a fabric, very close to edge. This is usually on menswear suits and coats.

          Sorry! Trying to figure it out myself.

          • firegoodness says:

            Hello Nicole! Well, my English language knowledge of sewing terms is not as good as I wish it was. I looked up the terms that you have mentioned. It certainly IS NOT “reinforced” seam. But, it looks that what you call “topstitching” is exactly what I did for the seams. Yes, that´s the thing on men´s wear. Also jeans, I guess. On the hat it is one sewn topstitch line (not two like on jeans). Thank you for letting me know the correct name! Let me know how your hat turned out to be!

  24. Sylvie says:

    A big thank you for this tutorial, it is great.

    Yesterday I sewed a flat cap for my son (3 years). All his teachers were amazed when they saw the cap.

    I really want to make one for my 5 month old daughter :°)

    Thank you again :o )

    Sylvie (France)

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you Sylvie for your kind words and feedback! I believe your work turned out to be really great (I am curious to see it) and I hope that the cap for your daughter will turn out great too!

  25. Jill Potter says:

    This is such a nice looking hat.
    I am rather new to sewing. I’d like to make this as a surprise for someone, as well as for my 2 sons and hubby. =) Should I start with an easier type of hat since I am a novice and can’t have the giftee try it on as I go?
    Thanks for your tutorial and inspiration, and your time.

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Jill! If you really want to make this hat then you certainly can make it. It was the first hat I had ever sewn. It turned out fine because before it I had created 2 models of this hat that I played with when trying to achieve the shape I wanted.
      If I was you then I would start by making the hat for the person who would be fine to try it on. If there is nobody else – make one for yourself, you will learn a huge lot.
      I would first take a cheap (but similar to the desired) fabric that I would be fine to waste if the hat does not turn out fine. I am very impatient person myself and I really dislike making try-out pieces before creating the real one. However, with hats it is really paying off (it saved me from disappointment, wasting time and good materials). This hat was a gift to my husband, so ideally I would have liked to make it secretly and then present it to him. But my husband is very picky about his hats. So, I gave him “gift voucher” for Christmas stating that he will get such hat. And then I was working on the hat and adjusting it on his head (well, and following his many recommendations about how the hat´s shape and looks should be… To some of his wishes I still said “no”). At the end he got the hat he was very happy with. He is proudly wearing it and often telling me what a great hat I had made :-)
      Now I am sure that the next hat will be easier to make and I can do it without the model who must try it on while I am sewing it. I have learnt a lot while working together with my husband on his hat, so I know where the risky and difficult parts of the sewing process are (I had a chance to improve my skills on those try-out hats).
      Maybe your very first hat will be good for wearing it in garden, but maybe it will be good enough for wearing it everywhere. Certainly – each next hat will be easier and easier to make :-)

      If you believe you can make this hat, you will sooner or later certainly end up with the result you aim for.

  26. Terri Baldock says:

    THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH for this pattern!!!! I’ve made about 10 of them for my 19 year old son so far! It’s all he’ll wear! We’ve had so much fun with different types of holiday fabrics!!
    On the thin cotton fabrics, I added a layer of fusible batting. Worked perfectly for me.
    Once again, THANK YOU.

    • firegoodness says:

      Terri, I am so happy for your feedback (Thank you!) and that your son appreciated your work! I guess you have a great relationship with your son that he not allows you to make hats for him, but also wears them ;-) (I hope that when my Little Dragon grows up it will be similar situation.) You surely have a sewing talent!
      I will highlight your comment, so others can see the tip about the thin fabric option. Thank you for this tip!

  27. Jill Potter says:

    Hi again, I’m sorry to come back with another question…but it’s such a great looking hat and I think my father in law would love it for Father’s Day. Only a week away!
    As I mentioned, I am new to this and I don’t understand the purpose of the overlapping the pattern pieces. Do I print 3 copies to cut each one out or…?
    Thanks again, Jill

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Jill! The pattern is the same for all layers of the hat. It depends on the material – which detail you need to cut out. Cut out once the paper pattern and use it for all layers as needed.

      For outer layer you need to cut from fabric: pattern details 1 and 2 (pattern shows half of the details 1 and 2 – see for the folding line indications), and twice detail 3 (see picture 1 top right corner, and picture 6). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 7 mm outside pattern’s line.

      If you make the hat with lining, then from lining fabric you cut out details 1 and 2 (picture 1 middle fabric, and picture 7). Cut the fabric with seam allowance 5 mm outside pattern’s line.

      If you want to add extra sturdiness to the outer layer – you can add fusible Interfacing for details 1 and 2 (picture1 on the very left, and picture 8). Cut the interfacing right on the pattern line. However, maybe for the first hat it it better to skip this step. For the outer fabric take the material that is not too thin, so it can hold the shape well by itself and there is no need for interfacing.

      I hope it helps.

  28. David Gourley says:

    Thank you for the pattern and tutorial! I have been making these caps for myself and my friends for quite sometime. It is all I will wear. I originally bought a cheap one at Walmart and took it all apart to use as a pattern. it works okay, but I really like the shape of your cap. I will be making a lot of them! It’s great to have a couple patterns as the caps available are very limited in color and are usually expensive. This is a great way to have a variety of caps that no one else has. I have even been approached to make them and sell them! But I declined as it takes away their specialness. Thanks again for the pattern!

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, David, for your feedback and sharing your experience! Your friends are certainly lucky with you!
      I fully agree with you that such hats in the shops are of limited choice and once they are of good quality – they are expensive, while the perfect fit is another issue as well. These were the reasons why I created the pattern (nothing we could find in the shops would suit my husband´s taste).
      I also get something out of it – I really like the way a man looks when wearing this kind of a hat :-)

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  30. Adam says:

    I’m going to make one of these for myself and then for my sons (3 and 1 year). From the explanation you gave to Brandy, I’m guessing that I could measure my son’s head and then use a proportion to find the amount of reduction on the copy machine. For that matter, perhaps I should do the same once I have my own measurements. Do you have a recommendation for what stitching to use if I’m going to do this by hand?

    I would love a start to finish video of this.

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Adam! You are completely right! Measure the circumference of your son´s head and then do as you wrote to find out the reduction rate for copy machine. When you have created the right size of pattern – please, recheck the length of the patter´s detail with thread (like I explained it to Brandy). I would suggest that at first you make the hat for yourself (and start with a material that you would not feel sorry if the first hat would not work out).
      For your own hat you can easily do without adjusting the pattern on copy machine. Just measure your own head and compare the measurement with tutorial. My husband has a rather big head, so probably you will simply need to sew within the lines that are around the head – you will see which ones those are when you start to assemble the hat and try it on. I suggest you to try the hat on several times and adjust it where necessary – for you and for your boys too.
      Next hat to make would be good for the oldest son and as last one – for the youngest (as it is the smallest hat, and it is good to have had a practice before with bigger hats). For the kids´hats I would suggest that you insert the elastic band on the back side of the hat – this way the hat can be a bit bigger, your son will wear it for a longer time and it will have a better fit.
      If you want to start easier way – make the first summer hat without lining.

      It is completely fine to sew the hats by hand. For the seams you need to use back stitch: http://sarahwhittle.blogspot.ch/2010/07/humble-backstitch.html Make sure that you are sewing small stitches, so the hat holds together better. If you want to secure the edges of the fabric (it depends of the type of fabric you are using. I normally would do this step for a hat that I want to wear rather often), then before you start assembling the hat – you might want to use overcast stitch for each detail. http://diyfashion.about.com/od/easysewing/f/Overcast_Stitch.htm
      Maybe it makes sense for the first hat to do everything as simple as you can and let the first hat be your practice hat to use as model for next hats. As soon as one hat is made – you will gain a lot of know how for making other hats and then you can do all necessary sewing to make very durable hats.
      I hope it helps.

      As for video – hopefully I can make one when I make the next hat. As we have a small baby at home, then it is rather unpredictable when it would be :-)

      • Adam says:

        Thank you for the quick reply! Good luck with the little one, I’m convinced that Dickens was in the first few months of a new child when he started “A Tale of Two Cities.”

  31. Katie says:

    Thank you for making this tutorial!
    I did find that it was easier to allow a larger seam allowance and then trim before finishing.
    Also, I waited to sew down the front until last as it was very difficult to sew any of the brim-related seams on the machine otherwise.
    I did make what I think is a mistake (doesn’t seem to be an element in your sewn example) but I top stitched the joining seams of pieces 1 & 2. It doesn’t seem like a bad mistake but not as smooth of an outline. Instead, is what you intended for the seam allowance to be caught in the second line of stitching? Almost like a flat felled seam?

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Katie! Thank you for your feedback and for time taken to share your experience with sewing! I guess that flat felled seam is the right word to use for that additional seam where details 1 & 2 are joined together and the seam is stitched to the top of the hat. As English is not my native language I still lack a lot of names and words for my descriptions. Thank you for letting me know the correct word!

  32. Joan says:

    Thank you so much for the tute and pattern. I’ve wanted to make one for my 2 year old son for a long time now. I found your tutorial about a month ago but I keep putting it off since it looks kinda easy but sounds complicated ( am I making any sense?). But I finally made one last night, I keep having trouble with the brim and I don’t understand why my edges(points “A”) does seem to meet? I cut the fabric without adding seam allowances since my son’s head is smaller. The hat came out a little bit wonky, but son wore it today and he likes it! So I’m going to try and make anothe one for him.

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Joan! Maybe it sounds complicated because it was the first cap I ever sewed. I am not familiar with correct sewing terms, and english is not my native language. If there is anything that you would suggest to rewrite – please, let me know! I will be happy for a help!

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  34. perkypat says:

    bacio le mani! that means “big respect” in sicilian dialect :)
    here http://perkypics.tumblr.com you can see my model of the hat (in italy we call it “coppola”), in a pelouche fabric, just to test some changes I made to the pattern, which is 2 cm shorter (to the top and the brim). for 57 cm sized.
    thank’s a lot for sharing ^ ^

    • firegoodness says:

      Grazie mille! :-) You have a really great hat! I love your fabric choice, and really – your hat has a VERY professional Look – my biggest compliments for this great work you did! Thank you for sharing! :-)

  35. Diane says:

    forget my first comments, I found it!!

    Thanks a lot for this, my husband will be very happy!

  36. Donavon says:

    Thank you very much for this pattern. I’m a huge fan of flat caps, have been wearing them for years and just recently advanced quite a bit in my sewing ability and mentioned to a friend that I want to learn to sew my own caps. She sent this to me and turned around and started making one out of a salvaged wool suit coat. It came out looking great, but feels a bit shallow on the head if you know what I mean. I definitely haven’t given up and plan to work on a couple more attempting to perfect the craft. This pattern was a fantastic starting point, and I greatly appreciate that you put this out there on the web for free. Thank you very much!

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Donavon for this wonderful feedback! I am so glad you have this wonderful attitude to continue exploring on getting the shape you desire. You will certainly manage! And thank you for your appreciation!

  37. bela s. says:

    Thank you very much. I have a pattern from a great Japanese pattern magazine, but since I don’t read Japanese I was a bit unclear on the steps and pattern pieces since I’ve never sewn a hat before. Your tutorial cleared it up.

  38. Emma says:

    Made this for myself and the instructions and shape of the hat are fantastic, but it’s waaaay too small D:
    I skimmed the instructions a bit and thought seam allowance was included in the pattern, so just cut it out straight from the pdf size without adding more, and even though I sewed only 0.3cm from the edge – I stitched it by hand as my machine is in storage – it’s too small for me to wear. My own fault, maybe I’ll make another later. Thank you for the excellent guide and pattern!

    • Maggie says:

      I’m dying to make this too … did I read this correctly though … I need to add a seam allowance?

      Many thanks for the pattern firegoodness, I need to make it for someone with a big head (lol) but I read earlier how to do that so just need to know whether to add the seam allowance pretty please.

      • firegoodness says:

        Thank you, Maggie! Yes, you need to add seam allowance of at least 5 mm. YOu wrote that you are making the hat for the person with big head – then maybe it is a good idea to make even bigger seam allowance so you can play with it if you would need to increase the size of the hat even more.

        • Maggie says:

          Thank you, yes … that’s a great idea (I won’t let him see what I wrote here about his head).

          Yesterday, for my first cap (I’m starting it soon) … I went to a charity shop and bought a lovely skirt (for $3) made from pure wool black and white herringbone, which should be more than enough fabric for my ‘trial’ cap!

          I’m ridiculously pleased with myself for thinking of that and even more so with you for sharing. If it works out well I’ll be back to tell you (but if not I may just slink off quietly).

          Lol.

          • firegoodness says:

            Maggie, you really have found a great solution for an appropriate fabric for the hat! I know from my own experience that good fabric for gatsby hat usually is quite pricey, and also – at least here in Switzerland it is really difficult to find a nice fabric of proper quality. I just love your solution of skirt! And the pattern and colors you have described – they seem just right for the hat. My compliments to you!

          • Maggie says:

            Its finished!!!

            I dont think its made how it was meant to be made (I couldn’t seem to understand how to do it) but it is a cap and it does fit and he (of the large head) loves it!

            Happy happy happy … thanks again for sharing.

            X

          • firegoodness says:

            Maggie, CONGRATULATIONS!!! The next one you make will be easier and your guy will be even happier. I speak from my own experience :-)
            When I made this hat – prior to it I had to make 3 test hats to figure out the pattern, but at the same time I was learning about the whole process, so this final hat turned out the best. I guess this is that story about practice, practice, practice :-)
            Oh, would you like to share the photo of your hat? You know – you can style it in the way that it looks just perfect :-) I would be happy to see it if it´s ok for you. You could send it to my email: aboutgoodness(at)gmail(dot)com

  39. Sue McClelland says:

    Thank you so much for this pattern and tutorial. I had a very similar pattern years ago which I had used many times but somewhere along the way it has been lost, so I was thrilled to find yours and I will be making cotton hats for my son to wear in his bakery / lunch bar. I have also made my old pattern up in soft lamb skin leather for my husband and son, they looked really classy.

    Many thanks, Sue

    • firegoodness says:

      Sue, thank you for sharing your great plans and this feedback! Wow – your son will be wearing gatsby hat in his bakery and lunch bar! I think it is a great style idea that will certainly add spark to the overall image of the place and the service they provide :-)
      I myself just looove how a man (or a guy) looks when wearing gatsby hat – it is not for everyone. And it does give some message about the cool side of this person´s personality.
      I would be very glad if you could share the photos of your men wearing their hats once they get their hats. Maybe even a hat worn in the bakery? :-)
      Good luck, Sue!

  40. Maggie says:

    Firegoodness … Yes, I’d love to send a photo but my camera ‘died’ 2 weeks ago … as soon as I replace it I’ll send one (shouldn’t be too long) … I may try and take a decent one from my phone but am not sure how to download it, it can’t be difficult though.

  41. Don Gamber says:

    I really would like to get the actual pattern for the gatsby hat, is there any way that this can be done. Thank you

    • firegoodness says:

      Don, I have created this pattern for the private use. I have shared it for free with the readers of the blog. You can download it from this post and make hats, but you can not distribute the pattern itself online or offline. I hope it answers your question.

  42. Don Gamber says:

    As soon as I can get an actual paper pattern of this hat, I will be making them from Kodiak leather.
    So please help me find the pattern. I will also laminate the pieces so they can be used over and over again.

    • firegoodness says:

      The pattern is posted in this article.

      • paulette says:

        Made my first hat and of course didn’t exactly follow directions. It is so wonderful and will fit a toddler so I sent it to my cousin. So hoping he will like it. Making another today for my hubby and my daughter wants one. Also used wool from a pair of slacks will buy better once perfected. Thanks so much!

        • firegoodness says:

          Those are wonderful news, Paulette! Thank you for sharing! And you are right – the practice makes the difference (you know – the hat here is the 3rd one I made as previously I made two trials to figure out the pattern, surely this particular hat had the best fit).

  43. Eadie says:

    I have printed out the pattern on regular printer paper. Is the pattern true to size? It all seems so small. Thank you for posting this…. my husband has wanted one of these for a long time, and we’ve never been able to find one he likes.

    • firegoodness says:

      Eadie, when you print it out – it should be on two sheets. Sheet 2 has some part of detail 2 that you will need to join with what´s on the 1st sheet. The connecting line is indicated. The pattern I print out is true size. I have no idea if maybe your printer has any different settings than mine. So far nobody has written me about the problems with pattern original size for adult (many people have made the hat). Follow carefully the sewing instructions. And remember to cut the fabric with additional seam allowance.
      Enjoy the making process! :-)

  44. Miriam says:

    Since you seem to be loving all the feedback (and I had fun reading it!) I would also like to thank you for this pattern. Most of the other ones I saw were not the picture in my head, but this one is perfect. I make costumes for a local high school Production, and for one of the dances this year the dancers need to all wear “newsboy hats.” I think your pattern is exactly what I need. I’ll be making a muslin (mock-up/tester) soon so I can adjust the hats for all 9 of my dancers. Thank you again!

    • firegoodness says:

      Miriam, thank you for your feedback! I truly admire you -to make costumes for 9 dancers! That´s a crazy work to do. I so much hope that hats will turn out well… And you wrote that it is for this year – it looks you will be very, very busy. It is a great idea to go with muslin test hat to adjust the pattern for your needs.
      If I can please, please, please, ask you to share the picture of your dancers wearing the costumes and these hats that you made? I would soooo happily share the photo with my husband (to justify the hours I put into writing tutorials;-)
      Let me know if I can be of help! And good luck with your great sewing task!

      • Miriam says:

        I will try to get you a picture. They will also have knickers (bloomers? like harem pants without the belly-baring part) to match the hats as part of their costumes, as that’s what we put all our dancers in. The production is the end of January, and of course they need the costumes before that, to practice with, so I will be busy, but I have two high school girls available to help me once I get to the assembly line stage.

        Thanks for the offer of help — I actually do have a question already — do you think I should be putting a bit of elastic in the back so help them stay on during the dance? I saw you recommended that for a child earlier in the comments.

  45. Joey says:

    Hi there, Thank you so much for creating this pattern and posting. I am reading through the instructions and having a hard time figuring out where the first seam is set. is it 7 mm from the edge? and then when topstitched 2 mm in is that 5 mm from the edge? Just not sure where to start with the first seam.

    Thank you for any advice.

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Joey, The pattern is given without seam allowance. When you cut out the fabric, you need to add seam allowance of extra 7mm. When you sew the first seam – you sew it 7mm away from the edge of the fabric, considering that you cut out the fabric with seam allowance of 7mm. (In the case when person is making a hat for smaller head – one does not need to add seam allowance). The second seam is more like a decorative one (something that is used on jeans) to give better shape for the hat. It is the same seam that you just sewed, but now you have to sew the fabric of the edge to the fabric of the hat (2mm away from the first seam, so that there are 5mm remaining on the edge). I don´t know how to explain it better, sorry! I hope there is at least some help.

  46. Miriam says:

    Once I realized I had inadvertantly scaled the pattern (I printed it on Letter instead of A4, that being what’s readily available in the US and forgot to unselect “fit to page!”), reprinted it unscaled, retraced it, re-added seam allowances and remade my muslin, I was very happy with my tester hat, so I sent it off to school for the dancers to try… and they want it round rather than oblong. :-( So I may wind up using a slightly different pattern instead of trying to adjust yours to be more round. I’m keeping your pattern around anyway, and may use it again!

    • Miriam says:

      But my two year old is in love, so I may make him another scaled down version for dress-up, etc.

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Miriam! I see your last 3 comments only today – I have been away from e-mails that long. Sorry! Thank you so much for sharing with me more details about your dancers! I hope you have found a round hat pattern. It would have been too much trouble to adjust this one to make a round hat.
      And the description of their costumes looks to be really cool!
      Regarding elastic ribbon – I have not tried for a hat (my kid is too young to wear such hat without tearing it off within 2 minutes after I had put it on), but some time ago I bought kid´s hat – same style, and it was with elastic in the back.
      I guess you live somewhere, where it is warm (as you consider such hat for your 2 years old)- here in Switzerland it is winter, and I will think about making such hat for my kid only next summer.
      I wish you a wonderful Christmas preparation time! :-)

  47. Sarina says:

    I am stuck at picture #3. I cannot figure out for the life of me how you went from picture 3 to 4, then again to 5. I have my fabric in front of me and have been twisting, turning, and pinning to try and get it right. Help?

    • firegoodness says:

      Picture 2 shows the top part where both details are attached to each other, on picture 3 you see the same two details in the process of pinning one detail to the other one and on picture 4 the process of pinning these two details together is completed. Picture 5 shows sewing the details together with sewing machine (on the top left corner you can see the foot of sewing machine).

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  49. David says:

    Hi,
    I can’t usually find something to fit me at the shops so I used your pattern as a starting point and made it up in calico and kept modifying until it fit a >62cm head. Then made it up in good fabric and by the third attempt I could match the look of yours. Pleased with the end result. You are generous sharing your knowledge and your time in this way. Thank you.

    • firegoodness says:

      David, thank you for this feedback and for your kind words! I am so glad that you are inventive and made the hat to look the way it pleases you! Guess what?! I am curious to see the end result of your hat – would it be fine for you to share it with me?:)

      • David says:

        Happy to send you a pic but can’t see how to do it on the site. If you email me at davidzferret AT gmail DOT com I’ll send a pic back.

        Regards,

        David

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  51. Anne says:

    Thank you very much for this tutorial. I tried it myself with only one layer of fabric, because I don’t have a sewing machine and I didn’t want it to take forever. It’s a bit too big for me, but I’m still happy with the result. I will make another one from linnen and my sister has already “ordered” one for her toddler.

  52. craig says:

    Hi, I really want to make one of these. Looks great but difficult. How long does it take to make?
    Thanks!

    • firegoodness says:

      Craig, it depends on your skill level and determination. I made the first one in half a day while doing some other tasks as well. But to make it – better equip yourself with patience :)

  53. Annika says:

    I love this pattern! Now i just need too figure out how to downsize it to fit my 7 month old son… I guess just printing a smaller copy of the pattern is to easy a solution? Any suggestions from firegoodness, my new hero? :-)
    /Annika and baby Erik in Sweden

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Annika!
      I have not tried to make such hat for so small child. I had bought such hat for mine, but it does not stay well on his head. This hat requires more work than it is worth to invest in for a baby- they grow out of hats sooooo fast. Speaking from my own experience.

  54. Pingback: Dads need accessories too! Make him a flat cap with this tutorial! | Go To Sew

  55. eric king says:

    I found this on pintrest(of course), and thought I would give it a try. I am taking pictures and giving your site design credit. I love wearing these hat, but size and fit have always been an issue. I will keep you updated. I might have questions?

  56. BROOKE says:

    I love this pattern, so easy! I work in a millinery supply store and can’t wait to make this hat using boiled felt.

    • firegoodness says:

      Thank you, Brooke! Great choice of material for the colder weather! Let me know how it turned out!

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  58. Avery says:

    Thank you. What a marvelous tutorial! We just featured it on our blog….linking back to your blog of course.

  59. catherine Bryan says:

    I just finished making this hat..out of recycled denim..WOW it’s amazing….love the pattern an style

    • firegoodness says:

      Congratulations! I would love to see the picture. It would make my husband very happy that my gift to him made somebody else feel good too :)

  60. Renna says:

    Thank you for this pattern! I looked everywhere for an affordable hat for my toddler for a wedding rehearsal…used your pattern without the extra seem allowances and fits his 20inch head perfectly!

  61. Icy says:

    Greeting from Hong Kong! I can’t describe how much I wanna thank you for providing this tutorial (and thanks for Google letting me to find here lol) My boyfriend loves flat cap a lot, but really cannot find a nice one in Hong Kong. But start from now, I can make it for him! Can’t wait to give it a try! Gotta go buy some beautiful fabric tomorrow : ) Thank you so much!

    • firegoodness says:

      I am happy when you are happy! It was a lot of work to put together this tutorial, but I am very happy that it is useful for others. And my husband is happy too as he helped me a lot with pictures and technical part of getting the description look right. If you share the picture of your work – I would be very glad for that too :) Have fun with making!

  62. Catara says:

    Hello!

    Love the hat. I’ve made many of this style of hat from another pattern but haven’t quite accomplished the flat brim look (step 9). So I’m trying to understand how you did it! Can you please clarify one point? Step 5 – when you write “center of hat” do you mean top of hat? So you would be pining the seam up towards the top of the hat and sewing the top stitching around the top of the hat catching the seam in the top stitching? Is that right or wrong? :0)

    Also, for step 9, it seems like you are just pinning the seam of detail 1 and 2 to the brim except when you get to the sides? Just trying to understand how you did it to make it smooth. How did you hand stitch it so it lays flat?

    Thank you so much!

    • firegoodness says:

      Hello Catara! About Step 5 – I am talking about the seam that you see on the picture 5. when you turn the hat to the right side then you pin this seam towards the center of the hat or as you write – top of the hat and stitch it this way because then hat gets a better shape.
      About Step 9 – No, the brim is not pinned to the seam of detail 1 and 2. The brim is pinned and attached to the the hat all around the brim. Pay attention – I have attached brim only on detail 2 and not on detail 1.
      I hope it helps! I would be happy to see your hat!:)

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  64. Agon Dy says:

    This is a great tutorial. It’s written so that I only. Have to read it a few times to understand it. (I’m still a newbie so I’m usually having to beat my head against a brick wall to understand tutorials.). The only problem I’m having is that I have to eyeball the cutting part because all of your measurements are using the metric system and none of my measuring told have mm. (Yeah, I’m American.). But hey, it’s good practice for me.

    I’m really looking forward to using this for my steampunk halloween costume this year! Thanks for the idea and the pattern!

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  66. I was so excited when I found your tutorial for this flatcap..I have been looking for one for ages…I want to make them for Teddy bears,so I have downsized the pattern and was good to go..But…I was fine until I got to steps 4,5 and 6…Either I am missing something but I just cannot work out what to do next…please can you help..xx
    Thanks..Veronica..x

    • I have just gotten past step 4..lol….step 5 has me really baffled…I bet it is as easy as pie,but I just can’t see it….xxx

      • firegoodness says:

        Veronica, you can read the explanation of this step in earlier comments. And – as you are making the hat for Teddy bear – you can also skip this step. I hope it helps.

  67. Karin says:

    Hello there, this is just wonderful, I was looking at these caps just yesterday as a birthday- or even Christmaspresent for my man, and they cost a bloody fortune! Then I remember that I can sew! And then I found this georgious hat and the even better instructions on how to do it!!

    My only problem is: the birthday is only three days away and I have two small children, one only just a year old – hence my question: HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO MAKE THIS HAT?

    Maybe it has to be a X-mas present after all… :D

    Thank you and greetings from Austria!
    Karin

    • firegoodness says:

      Hi neighbor Karin!:) You are in Austria and I am in Switzerland. It took me less than a day to make it. If you have nanny for your kids, then you might need 2 days or so (I don’t know your sewing skill level) just to be sure. So I would suggest that you better make it for Christmas. Just remember to start really early – if you sew a bit every day, it will take quite a while to finish it. Have fun!:)

    • SunGold says:

      I made the hat in about 2 hours, including hand stitching the brim, but it’s a good idea to make a trial hat (muslin) first to work out fit issues.

      • Karin says:

        hi, in the meantime I made two hats – the first one took about half a day, when I ad up the times I took in between children. doing it this way, of course means, every time you get back to the project, you have to “get into it” again. the second hat took me roughly two to three hours – once I knew, what I was doing and also the material was a lot lighter and easier to sew.

        my problem though is: the hats sit on the “very top” of my mans head. meaning, they don’t really stay on when there is a lot of wind. Firegoodness, I’ve noticed a kind of brim on your hat where the back of the head is. I don’t have that on my hats, but it seems to make sense, when you need the hat to sit lower on the head. Know what I mean?

        Did you ad something there?
        Thanks Karin

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  69. Hi.. I managed to work through the instruction…when I realised what step 5 meant I sailed through it…..I don’t know if you will be able to see this pic but I will post the link anyway..
    I hope you like what I did with your pattern…x

    https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=616155678445556&set=a.419016981492761.98295.335376103190183&type=3&theater

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